Gutter Installation Cape Town

Safety First

The first thing to acknowledge is that gutter installation will always take place at height. This means that a ladder or ladders will be used, and maybe even scaffolding in some cases, depending on the size of the job and how accessible the roof area is.

Whether work takes place on a bungalow, house, apartment, or warehouse, health and safety regulations regarding working at height must always be observed. Checkaroof ensures that all contractors are trained in safety procedures and that they maintain vigilance at all stages of the job, for the protection of employees and anyone in and around the worksite.

The Right Tools

Secondly, we need to look at the tools required for the job:

• Spirit level
• Wall plugs
• Tape measure
• Silicone spray
• Cordless screwdriver/combi drill
• Ladders
• String
• Hacksaw
• Pencil
• Plumb bob (plumb line)
• Medium sandpaper or a file
• Sheet metal screws

Many of these are tools that are commonly found in most home tool kits, but professional roofers and guttering experts will replace these frequently and always perform safety checks on items such as ladders. It’s always worth double-checking any equipment before starting the job, as well as keeping spares handy.

The Components

As 99% of all guttering installed in the UK is made from uPVC, we’ll focus on the installation of this type. Plastic guttering is lightweight and easy to handle and install, and it also comes in a range of colours and styles, which is why it is so popular.

Before proceeding with the job, all the guttering parts should be checked to make sure everything is present:

• Fascia brackets (also known as gutter support brackets or gutter brackets)
• Downpipes
• Downpipe clips (or pipe clips)
• Stop end outlet/Running outlet
• Gutter unions (union brackets)
• Stop ends/end caps
• Offset bends
• Gutter lengths (usually sold in 2 or 4-metre lengths)
• Downpipe shoe (if required)
• String/brick line

In most cases, half-round guttering is used as this can cope with most situations. In areas with excessively heavy rainfall, a high-capacity gutter should be used. Also, if you have a lot of trees surrounding the property, you might want to install a leaf protection guard to stop leaves from blocking the gutter.

The Procedure

Remove old guttering

The first step involves the removal and disposal of the existing guttering. If the old guttering is plastic, then it shouldn’t be a problem as it will be lightweight. However, if old cast iron guttering is being removed then extra care must be taken as this will be heavy.

Make a plan

Before starting work, a careful plan of the work should be drawn up, using a diagram of the components which will act as a guide and make the process go more smoothly. A professional guttering expert will always work to a detailed plan and will refer to it often to make sure that all is as it should be.

Fix the gutter outlet in place

The position of the stop end gutter outlet is established by hanging the plumb bob directly over the drain below. This is marked, along with the fixing holes, on the fascia board using a pencil, ensuring that it doesn’t come any more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.

Small pilot holes are drilled into the fascia board, then the stop end gutter outlet is fixed in place with screws. It is important that these are not over-tightened, as they may break the clip.

Fix the first fascia bracket in place

A fascia bracket (or support bracket) is fixed at the other end of the fascia board, at least 100mm from the end. This should be placed higher than the stop end outlet to allow the correct fall. The fall should be 3mm per metre to ensure that water flows down the gutter runs towards the outlet. If the outlet and downpipe are situated in the centre of the fascia board, then this process needs to be done at either end.

Find the position of the remaining fascia brackets

Using a spirit level and a straight edge, such as a string line, the positions of the remaining brackets are marked out and fitted carefully, with the end bracket serving as a guide. Once all the brackets are in place, this is a good opportunity to make sure that the gutter has the correct angle to allow water to drain away through the running outlet hole. Each bracket should just touch the string line, no more than 1 metre apart and no more than 150mm from the stop ends or any angles.

Lubricate the gutter seals

Gutter seals are sprayed with silicone lubricant to make installation easier as they will slide into place without requiring too much pressure. The silicone spray also helps the guttering to cope with contraction and expansion due to fluctuating temperatures.

Install the first length of gutter

The first length of gutter is fixed into place, starting at the downspout outlet and working towards the highest point at the opposite end of the fascia. It should be a simple case of tilting it into the fascia bracket and pushing it firmly down to click it into place.

Fit a union bracket

A gutter bracket/union bracket is fixed in place at the end of the first length using screws.

Install the second length of gutter

The second gutter section is slotted into the gutter bracket, making sure to follow the markings that show the angle of the gutter run. It doesn’t hurt to re-check the angle at this stage using the spirit level.

Finish the remaining gutter run

The remaining lengths are put into place, and the last piece is cut to size using the hacksaw. Any rough edges are smoothed down using a file or medium sandpaper. The end of the gutter is capped with an external stop end (end cap) to complete the gutter run.

This completes the horizontal section of the guttering, so now we need to look at the installation of the downpipe.

Establish a guideline

A plumb line is used to mark out the position of the downpipe in several places on the wall in a vertical line. These are joined up using a straight edge and a pencil, and fixing holes are marked out, making sure that the clips are not more than 1.8 metres apart. Fixing holes are then drilled and fitted with appropriate wall plugs.

Use an offset bend if necessary

Depending on the width of the eaves, offset bends are used to join the running outlet to the downpipe. This either uses two offset bends or an adjustable offset bend.

Install the downpipes

The downpipes are then fitted in place, starting at the running outlet. A pipe socket and pipe clip are used to join lengths of pipe together.

Attach downpipe clips

The first pipe clip is fixed into place directly below the offset bend. The remaining pipe clips are then fixed in place.

Attach a downpipe shoe

It may be necessary to use a downpipe shoe to direct the flow of water into the drain, and this is added at this final stage.

NHCT approved contractors are fully trained and qualified to undertake this work and complete it to the high standards that you expect and deserve.